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The
Lazy Photographer's Guide 07 - Isle of Skye
by Chris Maddock
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This
article is the seventh of a series of articles covering
much of the UK. It is basically a list of locations
I have programmed into my GPS Satellite Navigator
- most of which I have visited, the rest being other
places I intend to get to some day. It is not a
comprehensive guide to Skye, only the parts I have
been to and photographed - or intend to.
It will not contain any photographs, the intention
being simply to provide information about location,
access and likely subjects. I have photographs of
many of the locations in my galleries at www.dslr.co.uk
if you want to see what you could see before setting
out.
I've
called it The Lazy Photographer's Guide since most
of the locations are less than half a mile from
road access.
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Aird
of Sleat
GR NG 589 007
The furthest south that you can get to by car on
Skye.
Access
- travel down the Sleat peninsular on the A851 and
turn off at Armadale for Ardvasar and Aird of Sleat.
There is room to park where the road ends.
What
to see - the coastline and views across to Eigg
and the mainland across the Sound of Sleat. If you
walk to the Point of Sleat, a mile and a half or
so, there is the Point of Sleat lighthouse and views
across to Rhum or further up the Isle of Skye to
the Cuillin Hills.
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Allt
Dearg House
GR NG 477 292
An old white-painted house by the Allt Dearg Mor
river
Access
- take the A87 to Sligachan and just to the west
of the bridge turn off on the A683 Dunvegan road.
After about half a mile, there is room to park by
the footpath end, GR NG 479 297. Take the footpath
south until you meet the river, then follow that
upstream.
What
to see - the house, the river, several waterfalls,
and the Cuillin Hills in the background.
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Ardvasar
Bay
GR NG 634 034
On the road down to Aird of Sleat, this is a rocky
bay that looks to be of interest.
Access
- travel down the Sleat peninsular on the A851 and
turn off at Armadale for Ardvasar and Aird of Sleat.
After about 600 yards, just before Ardvasar village
there is room to park on the left, opposite the
"fire station" - at least the signs on
the structure indicate it's used by the fire service.
The bay is to your left.
What
to see - the bay, comprising rocky and sandy areas,
saltmarsh, associated flora and fauna and views
across to several small islands and the mainland
at Mallaig.
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Bla
Bheinn
GR NG 560 215
Bla Bheinn (pronounced Blaven) is one of the most
pleasing looking mountains on Skye. Although it's
not actually part of the Cuillins range, it is often
considered to be one of the Cuillins. There are
several places from which a good view can be obtained,
this is the closest.
Access
- take the B8083 road from Broadford to Elgol. Just
after you round the head of Loch Slapin, you'll
find a car park on the right.
What
to see - the footpath to Bla Bheinn leads up beside
a river, with several waterfalls and offers excellent
views of the mointain.
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Bornesketaig
GR NG 370 706
On the north-west corner of the Trotternish Peninsular,
Bornesketaig offers a rocky bay with an interesting
coastline.
Access
- take the A855 north out of Uig, turning left after
about 6 miles at Kilvaxter. Follow the road round
to a crossroads and turn left. Continue down to
the old slipway.
What
to see - the bay, slipway, boats, coastline around
and (on a clear day) the Isle of Harris in the distance.
Taking the upper road back out of Bornesketaig,
there is a ruined chapel at GR NG 381 710, just
after a cattle grid, which looks to have potential
for sunsets.
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Bride's
Veil waterfall
GR NG 495 509
This rather attractive waterfall is just off the
A855 a couple of miles south of The Storr.
Access
- there is a car park and picnic table just to then
west of the road at the above grid reference, about
5 miles out from Portree.
What
to see - the waterfall, obviously. The best angle
is to cross the river below the fall and climb onto
a small hill the other side overlooking it, this
allows you to be shooting down rather than up so
the sky will be less of a problem.
From this location, there is also a good view of
The Storr with the Old Man of Storr leaning out
across the skyline.
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Camas
Malag
GR NG 582 193
A small bay offering views of Loch Slapin and Bla
Bheinn
Access
- take the B8083 from Broadford. About a mile after
the ruined church of Cill Chriosd, the main road
turns to the right whilst the road down to Camas
Malag goes straight on. Follow this (narrow) road
down to the sea, about a mile, where you will find
plenty of room to park.
What
to see - Camas Malag bay, Loch Slapin, Bla Bheinn,
coastal flora and fauna.
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Cill
Chriosd church and loch
GR NG 617 206
Cill Chriosd (Christ's Church) is one of the two
oldest Christian churches on Skye, the present ruin
is believed to date from the 16th or 17th century
when it replaced a much older building on the same
site. It ceased to be used as the parish church
in 1843 when a new church was built in Broadford.
Access
- take the B8083 out of Broadford, heading towards
Elgol. Cill Chriosd is about three miles out of
Broadford, and cannot be mistaken. There is parking
on the left of the road, opposite the ruin.
What
to see - the ruined church and the graveyard with
a number of headstones dating back to medieval times.
Just to the south of the church is Loch Cill Chriosd,
a rather attractive lake often offering good reflections
of the hills beyond.
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Cuillin
Hills
GR NG 480 319
There are many locations to photograph the Cuillin
Hills, they appear on the skyline almost anywhere
on Skye. However, this is one where the main point
of interest is the Cuillins, the others have other
interests as well so are covered seperately.
Access
- take the A87 north from Sligachan for about a
mile and a half, where you'll find a layby on the
right
What
to see - the Cuillin Hills, of course. Moorland
for the foreground, with associated flora and fauna.
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Elgol
GR NG 516 135
Elgol is THE classic Skye location - a rocky beach
with the Cuillin Hills dominating the skyline.
Access
- take the B8083 from Broadford as far as it goes,
about 12 miles of single-track road with passing
places. The sign for the start of Elgol is at least
a mile from the end. The B-road ends in front of
a cafe with a parking area, but if you carry on
down the hill to the right there is a large parking
area by the beach and jetty, over the bridge by
the school.
What
to see - the beach with the dramatic skyline of
Cuillin Hills across Loch Slapin. Also, the islands
of Soay and Rhum if the light and visibility is
right. The curve of the river across the beach near
the jetty works well. If you walk out along the
beach the rocks make good and varied foregrounds,
as does the small eroded cliff on the right. Walking
beyond that cliff the shore changes to a limestone
pavement, for an alternative foreground.
Apparently, walking around to the next headland
(just watch the tide, though) you'll find the round
boulder that features in Joe Cornish's photo of
Elgol, as used on the cover of his book "First
Light". I haven't found it yet myself, but
I will.
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Loch
Langaig
GR NG 463 709
A small loch near the top of the Trotternsh peninsular,
with a fine backdrop of the escarpment edge leading
to The Quiraing
Access
- Take the A855 north from Portree. About 2 miles
beyond the turning at Brogaig (for The Quiraing
and Uig) you will pass a small loch on the left,
then after a few hundred yards a smaller one on
the right with a small hut beside it. Just round
the next corner is a layby (looks like an old quarry).
Walk west from the southern end of the layby, following
the stream. Loch Langaig is about 100 yards from
the road.
What
to see - the loch and the escarpment beyond. If
you continue along the path past the loch you'll
reach Loch Hasco about half a mile further on. Beyond
that, a path leads to The Quiraing if you wish.
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Gauscavaig
Bay
GR NG 597 116
A rocky bay on the western side of the Sleat peninsular,
with a castle ruin to the northern side
Access
- Take the A851 from Broadford towards Armadale
(for the Mallaig ferry) and turn right a couple
of miles past Isle Ornsay. Follow this minor road
over the hills past Ord Bay and Tokavaig. You can
park at Gauscavaig Bay itself.
What
to see - the rocky bay with the ruins of Dun Scaich
castle. There is a footpath at the northern end
of the bay which leads to the castle if you wish.
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Gesto
Bay
GR NG 350 369
This is simply a layby and viewpoint beside
the road.
Access
- take the A863 between Sligachan and Dunvegan.
The layby is on the western side of the road about
a mile south of Bradacale
What
to see - this location offers a fantastic view up
Loch Harport with Gesto Bay in the middle foreground
and the Cuillin Hills in the distance. Looking west
to the entrance to Loch Harport, you can see Ardtrek
Point lighthouse with Oronsay and Wiay beyond. If
visibility is good, you can see South Uist in the
far distance.
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Glen
Brittle
GR NG 409 205
Glen Brittle is the western boundary of the Cuillin
Hills, giving a dramatic view of the mountains,
along with rivers and waterfalls. The above grid
ref is the end of the road, other viewpoints are
listed along the road.
Access
- turn off the A863 Sligachan-Dunvegan road onto
the B8009 towards Carbost. The turning for the single-track
road down Glen Brittle is about a mile and half
down this road.
What
to see - about 3 miles down the road is a car park
at GR NG 424 257. This gives a stunning view of
the grandeur of the Cuillins along with access to
the river Allt Coir a'Mhadaidh. This offers several
waterfalls, both on the main river and on the first
tributary stream the path crosses.
There is another waterfall on the Allt a Choire
Ghreadaidh river, on the left by the Youth Hostel
at GR NG 409 225.
Half a mile further down the road is the Mountain
Rescue Post at GR NG 411 215. A path from here leads
east along the river to a high waterfall, Eas Mor.
Finally, the road reaches the beach. Here you can
get a good view of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest of
the Cuillins. A path leads closer to Coire Lagan
if you wish. The beach can be quite interesting,
with a nice meander to the river as it crosses the
beach.
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Kilt
Rock
GR NG 508 655
A vertical cliff of columnar basalt, this is well
worth a look.
Access
- from the A855 main road up the Trotternish peninsular,
turn off opposite Loch Mealt, just south of Ellishadder,
where you will find the car park and viewpoint.
What
to see - Kilt Rock, obviously. Also a spectacular
waterfall in the foreground, plunging over 350 feet
into the sea. Whilst there, Loch Mealt is also worthy
of a few exposures.
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Knock
Bay
GR NG 671 087
A mixed rock and sand bay with an ruined castle
at one end.
Access
- taking the A851 main road down the Sleat Peninsular,
Knock Bay is about 3 miles beyond Isle Ornsay. A
track leads down past a farm to the bay, with a
footpath across the river and through some woodland
to the castle. You may be able to park at the top
of the track, failing that try outside the Toravaig
Hotel (just to the north) or at Teangue to the south.
What
to see - the bay and castle, with old boat remains
on the shore. Across the Sound of Sleat you can
see the mouth of Loch Nevis.
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Lealt
Gorge
GR NG 516 605
This is a deep gorge, complete with a couple of
waterfalls and an old diatomite works.
Access
- park in the layby at the above grid ref, beside
the A855 main road up Trotternish. It's just north
of the village of Lower Tote, about five miles north
of The Storr. A footpath leads to a viewing platform
above the gorge, although it is possible to descend
into the gorge.
What
to see - the gorge and works with the coastline
around. The waterfalls, the first of which is just
below the main road.
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Loch
Fada
GR NG 492 485
Loch Fada offers a great view of The Storr from
the south
Access
- take the A855 north from Portree. As Loch Fada
comes into view you can either park by a cattle
grid or, a couple of hundred yards further on there
is a small layby (one car only) opposite a cattle
enclosure.
What
to see - the fine view across the lake with the
impressive backdrop of The Storr
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Loch
nan Eilean
GR NG 471 306
Just off the road, this loch offers a good view
of the Cuillin Hills
Access
- taking theA863 Dunvegan road from Sligachan, there
is a layby about 1 mile along. The loch is a few
hundred yards further along,
What
to see - the loch and surrounding moorland with
the Cuillins or Marsco in the background.
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Loch
Slapin
GR NG 571 212
Loch Slapin is a fine sea loch, offering good views
of the mountains around
Access
- take the B8083 from Broadford until you reach
the shore of the loch just after Torrin. There are
several places you can park beside the loch on the
eastern side, and a couple on the western side.
What
to see - from the east you get a stunning view across
the loch with Bla Bheinn rising beyond, whilst from
the western side you can get Beinn DeargMhor and
Beinn Dearg Bheag with the loch and fishing boats
in the foreground.
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Luib
GR NG 564 279
Luib is a small village on the shore of Loch Ainort,
on the eastern side of Skye.
Access
- Luib lies on the A87 between Bradford and Sligachan.
What
to see - views of Loch Ainort, the stony beach beside
the loch. Also a thatched cottage with stones hanging
from ropes to hold the roof down in stormy weather.
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Macleod's
Tables
These are a pair of flat-topped mountains dominating
the Duirinish peninsular on the western side of
Skye. There are various good locations from where
to view them, of which here are a few.
GR
NG 275 483 - where a minor road leaves the main
A850 just before reaching Dunvegan from the east.
Looks south-west at the Tables.
GR
NG 276 458 - at the other end of the minor road
above.
GR
NG 263 462 - shortly after the B884 leaves the A863
south of Dunvegan, there are a few places you can
pull off briefly to photograph the Tables with a
small stream in the foreground.
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Neist
Point
GR NG 133 478
A spectacular promontory on the far west of Skye,
with a lighthouse near the end.
Access
- take the B884 from Dunvegan to Glendale. Half
a mile beyond Glendale, turn left for Upper Milovaig
then left again for Waterstein and Neist Point.
Carry on the the car park at the end of the road,
by the lighthouse supplies hoist.
What
to see - you can take the footpath down to the lighthouse
(which you can't actually see from the car park,
there's a hill, An t-Aigeach, in the way) which,
although steep in parts offers good views of the
coast as well. Alternatively, climbing the hill
to the north of the car park will give a good view
of the lighthouse peeking around the side of An
t-Aigeach.
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Ord
Bay
GR NG 616 131
On the western side of the Sleat Peninsular, Ord
Bay offers a good view of Bla Bheinn.
Access
- Take the A851 from Broadford towards Armadale
(for the Mallaig ferry) and turn right a couple
of miles past Isle Ornsay. Follow this minor road
over the hills to Ord Bay.
What
to see - the bay, the river meandering into it and
Bla Bheinn beyond.
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Sligachan
GR NG 486 298
At the head of a deep sea loch, sligachan offers
fine views of the Cuillin Hills from the north-east.
Access
- Sligachan lies on the A87 Broadford-Portree road.
There is a layby just to the east of the bridge
over the river.
What
to see - the old bridge makes a great foreground
for a view with the river leading away into the
distance and the Cuillin Hills beyond. It's possible
to frame the hills in one of the bridge arches if
you wish. Alternatively, a walk along the river
can give other good views. The pathalong the right
bank will eventually lead to Allt Dearg House.
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Tarskavaig
Bay
GR NG 587 087
On the western side of the Sleat Peninsular, Tarskavaig
Bay is an interesting rocky bay.
Access
- Take the A851 from Broadford towards Armadale
(for the Mallaig ferry) and turn right at Kilbeg,
a couple of miles before Armadale. Follow this minor
road over the hills to Tarskavaig Bay. At the highest
point of the road (GR NG 620 073) there is a good
view to be had looking across Loch Dughaill towards
Bla Bheinn.
What
to see - apart from the views on the road over,
there is the bay itself with the river meandering
across it and to the right is a curious natural
volcanic dyke. There are interesting rock formations
on the other side of the bay too.
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Tarskavaig
Bay
GR NG 585 092
Leaving Tarskavaig Bay (above) to the north, there
is a magnificent viewpoint at the top of the hill.
What
to see - in the distance to the south-west lies
the island of Rhum, whilst looking north-west offers
Tarskavaig Point and the Cuillin Hills betond.
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The
Quiraing
GR NG 452 691
A strange, dramatic landscape of volcanic pillars
with eroded drops between them and the main escarpment.
Access
- The Quiraing lies on the minor road cutting across
the Trotternish peninsular between Brogaig and Uig.
There are two means of access, the first being a
car park by the cemetary (1½ miles west of
Brogaig) under the ridge, from where you can walk
up to The Quiraing. The alternative is to park at
the top of the pass, half a mile west, and walk
along to The Quiraing on more the same level.
Wha
to see - the strange landscape of The Quiraing itself
and the stunning views to the east and south-east.
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The
Storr
GR NG 508 528
An incredible landscape of cliffs and rock pillars
dominated by the 161-foot high Old Man of Storr.
Access
- take the A855 Trotternish peninsular road out
of Portree. After passing a couple of lochs on the
right (Loch Fada being one of
them) you will find the car park and footpath on
the left. You can walk right up to The Storr and
the base of the Old Man but be warned - it's a steep
path ascending 1000 feet and the terrain at the
top is very rough and broken. You also need to be
wary of rock falls from the cliffs above.
What
to see - rocks, rocks and more rocks. The Old Man
dominates the landscape but Needle Rock (a pinnacle
pierced by erosion) is also worth a look. alos,
there are fine views to the east and south-east.
It's easy to lose track of time up there, when I
last went I spent over 2 hours and it didn't seem
like half that.
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The
Storr views
For those who are not energetic or just don't want
to climb up to The Storr, there are several good
viewpoints along the road.
The
first two have been covered already, Bride's
Veil waterfall and Loch Fada.
There is also a layby at GR NG 499 516, and a few
other places that it's possible to pull off the
road.
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Views
from Kyleakin
GR NG 754 264
Kyleakin is where the Skye Ferry used to land from
Kyle of Lochalsh before the bridge was built.There
is a large car park beside the shore and a viewpoint
by the old ferry pier.
Access
- turn off the A87 at the roundabout at the Skye
end of the Skye Bridge, the car park is on the left
a few hundred yards down.
What
to see - the Skye Bridge to the west with Kyleakin
lighthose below it, the small fishing harbour, views
across Kyle Akin and the ruins of Caisteal Maol
to the east.
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All
text and photos are copyright © Chris Maddock,
2007
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